Maxim Lyubimov, the chef and co-owner of the Rostov restaurant Leo Wine&Kitchen, is a classic example of a self–taught chef whose style is unlike anyone else’s. This year Lyubimov deservedly became the best cook in the nomination “Chef of the Southern Federal District region” during the CHEF OF THE YEAR award. Before that, he had already won the “Best in the Industry” award in the “Chef of the Year” category in the “Author’s Cuisine” nomination from the professional community “Palm Branch of the restaurant business”.
Rostov nugget Maxim explores the products and nature of the south, inspired by the diversity of territories and cultures from Rostov to Armenia and Georgia. Thus, the chef rethinks the tastes of the region, discovering new uses for local products and trying on not always obvious culinary techniques. Offering guests not a “sprawling Rostov cranberry”, but a neat, subtle and sensual representation of the local gastronomic individuality.
Maxim popularizes the gastronomy of his native land in every possible way: on tour from Moscow to Krasnoyarsk, camps and master classes at Novikov School, professional festivals. But he also does not forget to track the seasonality and change the menu every 3-4 weeks. For 5 years of Leo’s work, Max has developed more than half a thousand dishes.
Here ‘s how Lyubimov ‘s colleagues speak about his ingenuity:
I can’t imagine how he does it, I think it’s an exhausting process. But he is such a fan of taste and creativity that he finds motivation inside himself all the time.
During its work, the Rostov institution managed to become the best regional restaurant in Russia twice in 2019 and 2020 according to GQ magazine “Restaurant Rating”, twice to lead the rating of WHERETOEAT SOUTH (in 2021 and 2022) and get into the rating of WHERETOEAT RUSSIA (#13 in 2021), as well as in the TOP-1OOO of the best restaurants in the world 2020 and 2021 according to the French LA LISTE rating.
Later, the Leo team launched a new project – Vinoteca Leo, the opening of which turned the location around the small and bright star of the Rostov gastro scene into a real cluster – a wine bar and restaurant of seasonal cuisine of the south of Russia with a capacious and concise menu, which is updated once a month. More than 200 positions in the wine list, where the focus is on rare author’s wines.
And to the huge variety and variety of Lyubimov’s dishes, there will always be an ideal pair in the form of a glass from the local wine library!
Here are some notable combinations:
Spicy kebab and lamb saddle with baked tomatoes, stewed kale and salted asparagus + Gamme
Tartlets with mullet, aioli, corn cream and pickled shallots + Styrian Sauvignon
Fried green tomatoes with strachatella and arugula pesto + Riesling/Sauvignon Blanc/Gewurztraminer/Pink Prosecco
Baked Jerusalem artichoke with pickled chanterelles under creamy mushroom mousse + Chenin Blanc/Fino
Grilled beef fillet with eggplant in honey glaze with salted elderberry and etiva cheese mousse + Riesling “Philipp Kuhn”
Tartare with morels, potato mousse and crispy chips + Petnat “821”
Leo is especially fond of the “green” period from March to April, since it is already summer in the south of the country, and all vegetables, fruits and herbs on the menu are local.
The restaurant team comments on this time as follows:
Well, in the south, the season is generally summer. And the time of the most frequent menu updates. Young peas have appeared, they will be delicious for 2-3 weeks. Young beans, which are baked in pods, will also not last long. Asparagus – within a month.
Maxim Lyubimov’s cuisine is curious because in his dishes he often uses edible plants that are rarely used in gastronomy.
You don’t have to get hung up on romano salad, arugula and basil, there’s still a bunch of everything!
For example, the addition of blanched wild cherry to the combination of glazed potatoes with radish, seasoned with radish pesto, reveals the taste of beef fillet in a new way.
Cale with parmesan perfectly complements the chicken soup with tortellini.
Simple tortillas turn into a real work of art with the help of salted elderberry with lardo from mangalica cheeks or spicy eggplant phali with herbs.
Pickled rhubarb in sweet and sour gherkin chicken glaze perfectly reveals the taste of the bird.
Maxim is also experimenting with local spring herbs in the dessert menu. Interesting berry combinations:
Cherry with pollen and acacia
Strawberries with yogurt and tarragon
But Lyubimov can also embody familiar products in a variety of variations. So, they were presented with an interesting trio, including different forms of onions:
Shallot ceviche with mullet tartare
Stewed leek in pasta with gruyere
Baked onion with lamb fillet
Thus, Maxim Lyubimov’s experimental author’s cuisine appears to be an innovative combination of modern techniques and fresh ingredients of the local terroir.
Author of the article: Varvara Kartushina
